Pioneers in Portugal's Côa Valley

The Côa Valley offers a rich tapestry of history, stunning landscapes, and unforgettable food. From the peaceful village life of Sortelha to the rugged cycling routes, each day is filled with adventure.

We pedaled through valleys, over rolling hills, and occasionally tackled steeper sections which presented breathtaking views. We passed old stone walls – silent witnesses to a time when the land was more cultivated. In other areas, the trail led us through narrow, cobbled paths that meandered between villages, where houses seemed to hold centuries of stories within their stone walls. Each stretch of road invites you to slow down, breathe, and absorb the surrounding beauty.

An unforgettable stretch of our journey took us along dirt paths that hugged the shimmering Côa River, its water flowing peacefully beside us. The untouched river banks felt like a hidden sanctuary. As we climbed higher up the valley, the views were spectacular — olive trees, vineyards, and rocky outcrops unfolding beneath us. The vast, unspoiled beauty of the land made the ascent worthwhile.

Then there’s Faia Brava Nature Reserve, a pristine landscape of wildflowers, olive groves, and orchids. It was an untouched paradise, and cycling through this reserve felt like stepping into a living, breathing canvas of nature. Along the way, we spotted eagles soaring high above and vultures circling in the distance.

Around Castelo Rodrigo the landscape softened to reveal vineyards and almond groves, set against a backdrop of dramatic mountains. When we arrived, a group of young adults from the community led us on a fascinating tour of the castle, sharing their knowledge of its rich history and cultural significance.

Human influence going back to prehistoric times can be found in the Côa Valley. We visited rock art sites dating back over 25,000 years. Standing before these powerful images of animals and human figures, it was impossible not to feel a deep connection to the ancient people who left their mark on this land.

I couldn’t talk about my journey without mentioning the food. From a Michelin-standard dinner to traditional Portuguese delicacies, every meal was a reflection of the region's rich culinary heritage. Everything felt so community-oriented, whether it was sharing a meal with locals or spending time with our wonderful guides. A personal favourite were the ‘sweet sardines’, a fried dessert in the shape of Portugal’s ubiquitous tinned fish. But the earthy wild mushrooms we sampled were also unforgettable.

Another charming aspect of the journey is the coffee stops along the way. In remote villages, locals open up their living rooms to serve as the village bar, offering a cozy and welcoming break from the road. Our guides shared that sometimes they need to wake up the owners from napping behind the bar to get served. These moments, simple as they were, added so much character to the trip, allowing us to experience the warmth and hospitality of the people in a very personal way.

On my journey to Portugal, I also visited historic Porto and the vineyards of the Douro Valley. A scenic river cruise down the Douro offered a serene way to see terraced vineyards while immersing myself in the region’s rich winemaking heritage. And Porto is full of atmospheric restaurants and ornate architecture. We can offer extensions to either or both areas for Slow Cyclists wanting to see a bit more of this fascinating country.

One morning, I took a quiet walk through the village of Seixo do Côa, and it was an experience I’ll never forget. The mist hung low in the valley, and the sound of church bells echoed across the fields. The air was fresh and still, and cows and workers headed out to the fields at sunrise. I really felt that I had stepped back in time.

This is a journey to be savoured. Take a breath and let time slow down around you.

If you’d like to explore Portugal’s Côa Valley on two wheels, get in touch with Emelye and the team to book or find out more.