Crete

After your flight to Crete you will be transferred to the quiet village of Thronos, our base for two nights. Here we find Eleftheria, Lambros and family who give us our first taste of warm Cretan hospitality. Their homely property, Aravanes, enjoys spectacular views at the head of the valley. If you arrive in the afternoon, options include relaxing with a mountain view or walking in the vicinity with Lambros to learn about the local flora. The hotel has an authentic local taverna where we will have dinner.

Today, as we start to immerse ourselves in Cretan history and landscapes. We loop around the western and northern slopes of mighty mount Psiloritis. In one direction we climb up and over shepherds’ tracks between the central and northern valleys; at higher altitude the trees become hardier, the land rockier, the tracks redder. On the northern slopes we visit the artisan village of Margarites where we meet our local potter friends who are keeping alive traditions dating back to Minoan times. Then two major historical sites, 16th century Arkardi Monastery, a deeply significant place for Cretans with a tragic history, then the scattered ruins of the ancient city at Eleftherna, where we enjoy a short walk around the site to understand its Hellenic and Roman relevance. Returning to Thronos, we will again drink and dine in high spirits at Aravanes.

We meander around the Amari valley's quiet roads this morning, first to the village of Meronas and then beside a stream and through olive groves to the abandoned monastery at Asomaton. Skirting along the southern foothills of Psiloritis, we continue through rolling scenery, with goats and sheep for company, through numerous villages, one of which we stop at to enjoy a lesson in Cretan music by the talented Adonis. After a picnic lunch, Slow Cyclist style, we journey to the small town of Zaros. The gorgeous setting for our next two nights is a farm nestled alone in a small valley. The family owners have created a special environment that is true to their values of sustainability, quality craftsmanship, consideration for the land and gentle hospitality. There are no electric lights, just candlelight.

In an open 4x4 we adventure into the heart of the Rouvas forest, on the slopes of Psiloritis above Zaros. We join Nikos, bursting with character and a passionate truffle hunter. Depending on the season, we will join him on a hunt with his Italian hunting dogs, after which he and his daughter will prepare a truffle lunch. If truffle hunting is not possible, Nikos will turn his infectious enthusiasm to his other passion: bees. After this feast, we will trek down the beautiful Rouvas gorge, full of canyons, geological features and lush vegetation, ending at Votomos lake. Before dinner back at the farm, we can help prepare the bread and raki before a fun evening of food and music with our family hosts.

This morning we leave behind the mythical mountains to drop into the Mesara plain, the largest and most fertile in Crete, hence its attraction to the ancient civilisations. With a guide, we visit the Minoan antiquities of Phaistos (dating back to around 2000 BC), which enjoy an impressive setting with panoramic views. Then we cycle along the undulations at the edge of the Mesara plain, through its agricultural villages which live off the endless olive groves, before an epic lunch at Maria’s taverna. Maria’s simple and delicious seasonal food is much needed to fuel us for our late afternoon winding climb into the Asterousia mountains. What a change and what a surprise! Breathtaking scenery, a very special guest house and a larger than life host await. Oh, and an infinity pool.

An epic day and a fitting conclusion to our Cretan journey. By jeep we are driven down a steep dirt-road to the coast. From here we hike along a rocky path from the village of Ai Giannis, through a small forest, to the monastery of Koudoumas, one of the most important on the island. We pass beaches and caves where priests took refuge in medieval times. At the monastery, directly on the shoreline, we indulge in a picnic lunch and swim in the clear blue sea. In these parts, what goes steeply down must go steeply up. Mounting our electric bikes, we challenge ourselves for the climb up the sacred Kofinas mountain, vultures circling around its distinctive peak. As a reward (for succeeding or trying), we dine with views of the mountain, followed by music and dancing to celebrate the end of our journey.

After breakfast we will transfer you to the airport for your onward journey.